This is Ryan posting my second blog post and I figured I would post early to see if I can get a few more hits with my post. I am going to expand on my post later this evening and will just do a short one for the early-birds 😉
I would like to throw out a few things we are considering for the home for feedback.
We are thinking about putting the washer and drier in our master bathroom instead of a separate laundry room. This would save us space and take out the construction of an extra wall in our house. The more space we can save and the less we have to build the better!
Another thing we are considering is cementing the square “pavers” (cement squares that we got from de-constructing the 1970’s home) on the top of the back 40 foot shipping container (below the window wall) to act as a solar heat retaining floor/ceiling below the window wall (it will be the floor of the window wall upstairs offices on top of the 40 footer, and the ceiling of the kitchen inside the 40 footer).
Another question we are asking is if we even need to insulate the internal shipping container walls at all or if we can just leave them as 14-guage steel?
I will add more to this post in a few hours once our daughter Soleil goes to sleep. Keep an eye out and thanks for reading!
Round 2 of guy post 2 point 0:
Back to external walls. We are in a debate at the moment on using 2×6’s and batt insulation for our external walls or using 2×4’s and closed cell spray foam insulation instead. My concern about batt insulation for the external walls is rust. I do not want there to be ANY chance of moisture developing on the internal side of the shipping container walls. I have a feeling condensation will be an issue due to rapid heating and cooling of the external metal walls. Closed cell foam insulation would completely prevent this if applied directly to the steel walls as it would not provide the space necessary for condensation to develop. I am not sure how to completely prevent condensation when using batt insulation. I am also considering putting the beams for the wall horizontally in order to have the insulation rest between the 2×6’s (or 2×4’s) and the steel wall, thus preventing the wood from touching the metal and creating a thermal bridge since we do not need them for vertical support.
Roofing time. I have been discussing our roof in great detail with my friend Chris. Chris put a shed roof on his home and used normal galvanized steel roofing with screw fasteners. Apparently the issue’s with this type of roof are proper installation and regular maintenance. The company that install Chris’s roof over-tightened the screws fasteners, thus creating valleys for water to pool and eventually drip through the washers covering the fastener holes. These over tightened screws ruined his roofing panels and he is going to have to have the entire roof taken off and replaced due to improper installation.
Even when installed correctly, galvanized roofing screws rubber/neoprene washers dry out and crack after a few years. To properly maintain a normal galvanized steel roof the screws will need to be replaced every 2-3 years which adds time, effort, and expense to the cheaper steel roof over time.
After careful consideration my friend Chris is going with a standing seam roof for his home to replace his current roof. Though CONSIDERABLY more expensive, standing seam roofs do not require regular maintenance and are guaranteed for 40+ years. The fasteners are hidden below the roof thus eliminating any concern for leakage. There are many different types of stand seams for this type of roof. The image to the left shows a double locking seam with floating fixed clips screwed below roofing panels fastening the metal roofing to the wood below. This type of standing seam roof along with many others require a hand crimping tool or an automated crimper to lock the panels in place with the fixed clips.
Another method of standing seam is the snap lock system. This system does not require a crimping tool or fixed clips as the panels edges are crimped to the right shape already and can be directly fastened to the wooden roof below. They simply snap together at the seams overlaying the fasteners and preventing any type of moisture from penetrating the roof.
After all this information I believe it is time for some DIY eye candy. Here are a few cool ideas for reclaiming objects and re-purposing them for my final note. Enjoy and have a great evening!