Hello everyone,

This is Ryan posting my second blog post and I figured I would post early to see if I can get a few more hits with my post. I am going to expand on my post later this evening and will just do a short one for the early-birds 😉

I would like to throw out a few things we are considering for the home for feedback.

ImageWe are thinking about putting the washer and drier in our master bathroom instead of a separate laundry room. This would save us space and take out the construction of an extra wall in our house. The more space we can save and the less we have to build the better!

Three-Storey-Family-Dwelling-in-Seattle-l-Shower-RoomWe are also thinking about making our guest bathroom into a “wet room” with wood slats acting as drainage for the entire floor and a drop-down vertical shower-head for the shower.

beasts of the Southern wild
beasts of the Southern wild

Another thing we are considering is cementing the square “pavers” (cement squares that we got from de-constructing the 1970’s home) on the top of the back 40 foot shipping container (below the window wall) to act as a solar heat retaining floor/ceiling below the window wall (it will be the floor of the window wall upstairs offices on top of the 40 footer, and the ceiling of the kitchen inside the 40 footer).

wardell-copper-pipesWe are also wondering if it would pass code to have the plumbing pipes and the electric enclosed in pipes running along the outside of the interior walls?

Another question we are asking is if we even need to insulate the internal shipping container walls at all or if we can just leave them as 14-guage steel?

I will add more to this post in a few hours once our daughter Soleil goes to sleep. Keep an eye out and thanks for reading!

Round 2 of guy post 2 point 0:

Back to external walls. We are in a debate at the moment on using 2×6’s and batt insulation for our external walls or using 2×4’s and closed cell spray foam insulation instead. My concern about batt insulation for the external walls is rust. I do not want there to be ANY chance of moisture developing on the internal side of the shipping container walls. I have a feeling  condensation will be an issue due to rapid heating and cooling of the external metal walls. Closed cell foam insulation would completely prevent this if applied directly to the steel walls as it would not provide the space necessary for condensation to develop. I am not sure how to completely prevent condensation when using batt insulation. I am also considering putting the beams for the wall horizontally in order to have the insulation rest between the 2×6’s (or 2×4’s) and the steel wall, thus preventing the wood from touching the metal and creating a thermal bridge since we do not need them for vertical support.

Figure2-36Roofing time. I have been discussing our roof in great detail with my friend Chris. Chris put a shed roof on his home and used normal galvanized steel roofing with screw fasteners. Apparently the issue’s with this type of roof are proper installation and regular maintenance. The company that install Chris’s roof over-tightened the screws fasteners, thus creating valleys for water to pool and eventually drip through the washers covering the fastener holes. These over tightened screws ruined his roofing panels and he is going to have to have the entire roof taken off and replaced due to improper installation.

Figure2-37self tappingEven when installed correctly, galvanized roofing screws rubber/neoprene washers dry out and crack after a few years. To properly maintain a normal galvanized steel roof the screws will need to be replaced every 2-3 years which adds time, effort, and expense to the cheaper steel roof over time.

After careful consideration my friend Chris is going with a standing seam roof for his home to replace his current roof. Fig_29Though CONSIDERABLY more expensive, standing seam roofs do not require regular maintenance and are guaranteed for 40+ years. The fasteners are hidden below the roof thus eliminating any concern for leakage. There are many different types of stand seams for this type of roof. The image to the left shows a double locking seam with floating fixed clips screwed below roofing panels fastening the metal roofing to the wood below. This type of standing seam roof along with many others require a hand crimping tool or an automated crimper to lock the panels in place with the fixed clips.

large_ssAnother method of standing seam is the snap lock system. This system does not require a crimping tool or fixed clips as the panels edges are crimped to the right shape already and can be directly fastened to the wooden roof below. They simply snap together at the seams overlaying the fasteners and preventing any type of moisture from penetrating the roof.

After all this information I believe it is time for some DIY eye candy. Here are a few cool ideas for reclaiming objects and re-purposing them for my final note. Enjoy and have a great evening!

Stick Lightbenchdoor_wall

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8 thoughts on “Guy Post 2.0

  1. Washer dryer…… consider getting a ventless washer dryer combo. LG makes a very nice compact unity. They’re expensive. I have one, and it’s pretty sweet, considering the size.

    The wet room sounds awesome. I’m not sure how you’d make it an effective drain, obviously some kind of negative rise over run…. I would worry about long term clean out, such as hair and other things that would eventually cause clogging.

    “We are also wondering if it would pass code to have the plumbing pipes and the electric enclosed in pipes running along the outside of the interior walls?”
    Yes, this is fine. In fact, you have to have electrical in some kind of conduit if not in the wall. It could be metal conduit, or pvc. The plumbing seems redundant? They’re already in pipes. I’m not sure if it would be a good idea…. if you use copper pipe this should look fine. If you’re outside of the city, no one is going to care about the code that much, unless it looks really dangerous. The county inspectors are not like the city…

    You do not need to insulate interior walls. I would strongly recommend making sure all exterior walls are insulated, and the roof. As far as interior, it depends. There is certainly the element of soundproofing, and keeping some rooms at a different temperature. More insulation never hurts…. 🙂

    -Shawn

    1. Why do you like vent-less washer and drier as opposed to vented? Where does the excess hot air go from the drier? Are they energy efficient? – For the wet room we would have a slated wooden floor covering a cement one with a drain in it. We are thinking about building the wooden slated floor in sections that we can remove when we need to clean it (or the drain). – For plumbing and electric we will be in the city so we do have to worry a bit about “code”. I think copper pipes would look amazing if we can afford them for our plumbing! For the electric I think we will use metal pipes as well. If we do this on the outside of the walls it will be easy to get to it if we need to and I think it will look really really cool. Fingers crossed it will all meet code. – For insulation I think we will keep the interior walls uninsulated to start. We can always build that in later if we need 2. – Thanks for the comments man! Keep it up!

  2. Hey Brook,
    The boys and I are so excited for y’all and would love to offer out strong backs for any thing you guys might need extra help with. I had a thought about your insulation options, had y’all considered Kapok? It’s what Astral uses in their life jackets for floatation but it also is a wonderful an all natural insulator. Hope you are all doing well, looking forward to seeing everyone again soon.
    Cheers! Biz

    1. Hey Biz! Great to hear from you too. We would love to recruit you guys for some workin days once we really get going. Kapok has not crossed our radar, so we’ll definitely look into it. Looking forward to staying connected here and in the real world!!

  3. In regards to moisture on the steel…… coat the steel with something, like rustoleum for example. Then it could get wet as much as it wants, and no problems. Rust is inevitable with metal, but if you look at a lot of these containers, they’ve been running strong for decades and been all over the world, in the rain. I’m confused why you would use studs on the exterior walls, doesn’t this defeat the purpose of using a cargo container?

    Screws on roofing….. sounds like silicone would fix everything. Torque the screw as much as you want, then coat the whole thing in caulk and never worry about it.

    -Shawn

    1. So we only have 4 exterior walls (4 sides of the home). We will be putting studs on the inside of these exterior walls. We need them to hold the bead-board, plywood, or whatever we are going to use to cover the insulation (and plumbing/electric if we do not do the outside of the walls in pipes thing). – Good idea about silicone caulk… not sure why my buddy Chris didn’t do that with the over tightened screws in his steel roof. I might ask him actually. I am just not sure how well it would hold up to the elements (sun, freezing, etc.)

  4. For the washer/dryer, if it’s in your room make certain you get a quiet one, you don’t want the noise of that pair of pants you HAVE to have for work the next morning keeping you up. Stacked models in the bathroom also save space too, as that’s where you’ll change clothes most of the time. I’m sure you know to run the plumbing near a bathroom anyway, it’s cheaper to run all your water lines closer together, distance saved is money saved.

    If you don’t go with a ventless model w/d, consider placing the vent where you can get to it in the winter and let it flow into the house. During the winter here (Upstate SC) we put a stocking over our dryer vent pipe to catch lint/dust and detach it from the wall. We’re a family of 6, so we do a LOT of laundry, but the upshot is I never have to turn on my heat in the winter, and get away with a 70 dollar a month electric bill for the whole home (a 1200 square foot apartment) November through March. If you’re going to make the heat anyway to dry clothes, it’s makes sense to use it to really heat the house too, and saves energy elsewhere.

    1. GREAT suggestion! We will most definitely try to find a vented drier unit for this very reason.

      At the moment we are planning on throwing the Washer/Drier in our master bathroom. We will have a walk-in closet between the two, so hopefully our hanging cloths (and somewhat of internal walls) will muffle the sound a bit @ night.

      We are holding off on purchasing any appliances as we will be approaching appliances companies for promotional marketing at a later date. Given we are writing a daily blog, a book, and might just have a documentary filmed about our story (not for sure yet but fingers and toes crossed) we are hoping we can get enough attention to attract some energy efficient appliances and off grid technology to our re-purposed and cheap new abode 😉

      Once again THANK YOU for your honest advice. This kind of info is EXACTLY what we started the blog for in the first place and we look forward to hearing from you again on our future posts!

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